Indochina Adventure, Phase 2: Random Impressions

It's now Tues day, 9 November (Independence Day in Camodia), and we're currently chilling out on a wonderful, relatively unspoilt beach in Sihnoukville for a couple of days.   We spent 5 days back in Phnom Penh from Wed, 3 November, after completed the 4-week Intrepid Travel tour.   The tour was absolutely fascinating and perfectly organised, with a great tour leader and several  excellent local guides.   As we neared Bangkok for the end of the trip, we both decided that we wanted to explore a little more of Cambodia, hence a few days here and there.   After a boat trip to Bamboo Island tomorrow, we're planning to move on, via Kampot for a couple of days, to a place called Takeo, where we've arranged to work in an orphanage for a week or so.   After that, back up to Laos, where we'll hopefully meet up again with Jo, and do some more volunteering.

Our pace of life has slowed down now that we're no longer on the tour. That may mean that there is less to write about each time we post a blog (which might help Mike not to miss his Friday night beer at The Bells - heaven forbid!).   Meanwhile, however, as we've mentioned quite a lot about Phnom Penh before, we just wanted to share some random impressions about Cambodia:

1. The Cambodian people, particularly the ethnic Khmers, are really quite different from the people we've seen in the other three countries so far.   Many are darker-skinned, and seem to have some of the characteristics of Africans - broad noses/nostrils, thick lips, and very slightly bulbous eyes.   They also remind us of Uzbek people in their build, particularly the men - very powerfully built indeed.

2. Around the streets in Phnom Penh, we kept hearing what sounded to be a child's squeaky toy being used repetitively.   We've now discovered that these are the Khmer equivalent of a rag-and-bone-man's bell - men and women, pulling or pushing hand-carts around the streets, collecting recyclables from homes, hotels and restaurants.

3.All the food we've had so far, in all four countries, has been amazingly delicious, fresh and good.   Thai seems to be the hottest (in spice terms), but all of the others have also been wonderful.   We've had more fish and seafood, as well as rice and noodles, than you can shake a stick at, and they seem to use loads of fresh vegetables and herbs in just about every meal.   The prices are really cheap too.   A main meal here in Cambodia probably averages around £3-4, and a large mug of beer around £1.00-£1.50.   Wines, though, tend to be pricey, and so we've avoided those for the most part.   Cocktails, on the other hand, can be had for around £2.50-£4.00.

4. Before now, I've mainly been quoting prices here in Cambodia in US dollars.   The official currency is the Riel (yes, riel=ly!);  however, hardly any business is interested in using riels, all prices are quoted in dollars, and the only time we ever get any riel is in small change from time to time.
5. Since coming over to Indo-china, we've become millionaires!   In Laos, for example, we took out 3 million in one go from an ATM - but please don't cancel our lottery tickets, Sandra, as 3,000,000 Kip is around £100!

6. One of our all-time favourite singer-songwriters, Leonard Cohen, was due to be holding a concert here in Phnom Penh in a few weeks' time.   We had toyed with the idea of coming back from wherever we were to see it, as we love all things Leonard, but the tickets started at £200 each!   Happily for us, we've read in the local press that the concert has been postponed, with the promoters denying that the ticket prices were to blame, and citing instead 'production difficulties'.   It was due to have been a concert partly to raise funds for local charities in Cambodia, and the report says that Leonard has committed himself to making a 'substantial donation' , despite the postponement.

7. Another thing we've noticed here is that just about every street corner where there are pavement cafes and restaurants, is staffed almost full-time by a uniformed tourist police/security guard, whose job seems to be to look after any posh cars or motos that are parked in front of the restaurants, move beggars and street vendors on occasionally, and rearrange any tables and chairs which are vacated by customers.   A strange job indeed - but maybe it's been instrumental in making Phnom Penh such a safe place for tourists.   The atmosphere all around the streets in the evenings is just wonderfully relaxed and slightly festive.   During the day-times, however, especially around the Foreign Correspondents' Club, we sometimes feel we've been parachuted into the middle of a Graham Green novel!   Very 50s colonial indeed.
Next posting, we'll add some random photos, too!